Madeline Vionnet: French fashion designer who wasn't successful until after the War in the 1920s, when she became a part of haute couture; known for her creation of the bias cut, which was a diagonal cut of fabric so that it had greater stretch and accentuated the curves of the body
This is Madeleine Vionnet. Born in 1876, a seamstress at the age of eleven, she eventually became one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century with her famed “House of Vionnet” which opened in 1912 and operated through the late 1930′s. Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Christian Dior, Azzedine Alaia and Cristobal Balenciaga all name Vionnet as a major influence.
Evening Dress, Madeleine Vionnet: 1932, bias-cut silk satin. "...Vionnet's stretching and smoothing of the fabric in advance, along with her artistic cutting and sewing skills, kept the shape of the dress after its construction. The bias cut became a useful technique in the 1930s, when consciousness of body line was revived in fashion. As though Vionnet were an anatomist, her grasp of the body's form using her characteristic split line and bias cut fabric personified innovative garments."