Gentleman's smoking jacket, 1870s-1880s. Made from printed wool faille and lined with contrasting printed cotton. The front opening is embellished with Brandenburg tape appliqués around the top button. The brilliant print features intricate, exotic Eastern motifs. Although upper class Englishmen would not wear the ethnic clothing favored by artists and bohemians, a plush "ethnic-style" smoking jacket was just daring enough for aristocratic taste.
Woman’s Gown (Wentke), Coromandel Coast, India, c. 1730 (chintz); and Hindeloopen, The Netherlands, mid-18th century (construction), cotton, resist-dyed and painted; gown, lined with linen, trimmed with Dutch weft-patterned tape (langetband). Veldman-Eecen Collection, Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, 2012.22.15