Mary Todd Lincoln's Dress: Smithsonian Museum Washington DC. Mary Lincoln’s purple velvet skirt and daytime bodice are believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly. The first lady wore the gown during the Washington winter social season in 1861–62. Both pieces are piped with white satin, and the bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. An evening bodice was included with the ensemble. The lace collar is of the period, but not original to the dress.
White woven striped cotton gown, ca. 1808. U of Washington. CF bodice opening, high neckline gathered into a collar band/ruff. Smooth waist, ruffle down CF. Very tiny CB piece, regular SB. Puffed upper sleeve; very fitted and shaped lower sleeve. Rectangular back skirt, tiny concave waist, pleated to fit. Shaped CF and SF skirt pieces, drop-front, with edge ties to meet at back waist.