Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear: A Construction Guide by Roberto Cabrera http://www.amazon.com/dp/1628921706/ref=cm_sw_r_pi_dp_CrWcvb1E3A7BE

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I also reinforced the shoulder by adding bias cut hair canvas. Padstitched the lapels, taped the roll line (by hand) so that the lapels lie close to the body without gaping.

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Learn tailoring techniques which build shape using malleable natural fibers with various techniques to control the fabric.

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