Short dress, Madeleine Vionnet, 1927. Silk crepe in a straight shape, round neckline, sleeveless. Bodice and skirt are finely pleated vertically; yoke is finely pleated horizontally. Musée Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
Vionnet’s mastery of sinuous line, proportion and, above all, how to dress the liberated and dynamic female body made her one of the most celebrated couturiers of her day, and one of the most influential on over three generations of designers. Cristobal Balenciaga, another master of purist form, considered Vionnet his great mentor and friend.
Detail of the Madeleine Vionnet evening gown. In 1918 Vionnet hired Marie-Louise Favot. As a dressmaker and trained artist, Favot designed all of Vionnet's embroidery motifs. Though the motifs were designed in-house, the actual work was contracted out to Michonet, a Parisian embroidery firm founded in 1858. Michonet was later bought by Albert Lesage.